
When the first Benihana opened in 1964, Japanese
cuisine was unknown to the United States and the idea of having
a chef prepare a meal at your table was completely unheard of.
Blending exotic Japanese dishes with a dazzling chef performance
may have been a radical idea, but it was the recipe for success
at Benihana. More than 100,000,000 meals have been served since
1964.
By bringing Japanese food into the mainstream
and pioneering its "eatertainment" style of presentation, Benihana
has also paved the way in America for the popularity of other
Japanese cooking styles and food products. Sushi is now a favorite
all over the U.S. and soy sauce has become a staple in numerous
American kitchens, all thanks to Benihana.
This incredible American success story really
had its roots in Japan right after the war. At that time, Yunosuke
Aoki, (Yoo-OOH-No-Soo-Kay Ah-OH-Kee), a samurai descendant and
a popular Japanese entertainer together with his wife Katsu
(KAHT-Soo), opened a small coffee shop in Tokyo. A red safflower,
found in the neighborhood streets gave the Aoki's the inspiration
for the restaurant's name - Benihana - which in Japanese means
"red flower."
From his show business background, Yunosuke was
well aware of the publics' attraction to something "different."
This little Benihana coffeehouse soon became known for serving
and using real sugar. Yunosuke would have to pedal his bicycle
more than 20 miles to purchase the sugar.
The family's four sons grew up with the coffee
shop, which later became a full service restaurant. Each of
them understood the restaurant business from the ground up -
the importance of absolute cleanliness in the kitchen, using
the freshest ingredients and the very best cooking tools money
could buy.
The eldest son, Hiroaki (HE-ROH-AH-Kee) also grasped
the important lesson of offering guests something out of the
ordinary and he could not help but inherit his father's appreciation
for the "theatrical." There was something magical about this
combination and the thought stayed with him as he completed
college in Japan. Meanwhile, Hiroaki's athletic ability had
not been overlooked. His facility for wrestling earned him a
spot on the Japanese Olympic wrestling team. This team membership
would eventually bring him to America.
By the time Hiroaki arrived on U.S. soil in 1960,
he had already begun to form the idea that this country might
be ready for a marriage of a different kind of food - presented
with an entertaining flair.
Adopting a name, which would be easier for Americans
to pronounce, Rocky Aoki set off to have his dream become reality.
He worked seven days a week selling ice cream in New York City
and studied restaurant management at night. Through saving and
borrowing, Rocky scraped together enough money to finance his
first four-table restaurant on New York's W. 56th St.
As they worked within the authentic Japanese farmhouse
interior, the Benihana dining concept gradually came into focus.
Food would be prepared right at the table "teppan-yaki" style
(Teppan meaning "steel grill" and yaki meaning "broiled") with
dazzling effects by highly trained chefs. Rocky also believed
that because the restaurant was near Broadway, the showmanship
of the chefs was extremely important. Beef, chicken and shrimp
would be the stars of the menu, all prepared "hibachi-style"
(an American-style term for "teppan-yaki" cooking). Guests at
the communal tables would place their orders with the chef and
watch in amazement as these items were sliced and diced, and
flipped into the air. The timing in cooking was critical. These
different ingredients had to be ready to serve onto the guests'
plates simultaneously.
In 1964, after all the preparation and planning,
Benihana of Tokyo was only serving one or two customers a day.
Aoki family members moonlighted at other restaurants just to
pay the bills. But, six months after the restaurant opened,
an enthusiastic review by Clementine Paddleford, legendary restaurant
critic of the New York Herald-Tribune reversed the trend for
good. New Yorkers flocked to the four-table Benihana and Rocky
Aoki suddenly found himself in the position of having to turn
dining guests away.